How To Wax Traps: Make Your Traps Last Longer

I was already on to his game. I finished coloring my traps but I knew I wasn’t done yet.

Sure enough, while I was heating up my traps for coloring my friend told me to get another pot ready to heat.

I had never heard of waxing traps before but I was just informed I was about to do so with my entire trap collection.

Waxing Your Traps

pot over fire

Before setting to waxing your traps be sure they have had all the rust removed from them and already been colored. If you were able to do that then waxing your traps will be a breeze.

Before getting everything going you will need to gather up your traps, about two pounds of paraffin wax, a pound of beeswax, a small bit of pine gum (just about the size of a couple pees) and your boiling pot.

Don’t skip on the pine gum, that is the key to making your mixture thick and gummy. The wax will just roll off without it.

Only use about a pee sized piece of pine gum for every three or four pounds of wax.

Place your pot on the heat and add in your pine gum, beeswax and paraffin. Don’t add anything else until your wax comes to a boil.

Once the wax is boiling set your traps in one at a time. It is best to do this straight from the coloring pot but it’ll still work if you colored your traps in advance. (Always place a nail between the jaws when coloring and waxing)

If waxing directly after coloring be sure the traps enter the wax dry but still hot. Using an iron hook, turn the traps one at a time within the wax to coat them thoroughly.

Once fully coated pull each trap from the mixture and hang them for at least a full day. This will allow the wax to fully dry and seal.


When waxed with this method your traps will be odorless and protected from rust and discoloration for multiple seasons. The process take a few days from derusting to waxing but doing so will ensure your traps last you a lifetime. A properly waxed trap will also not fail you in the field leaving you with empty traps.

Written by Fred

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